[WebDevDan]

Can you send me the link for the software? I do not want to buy a usb hub since the car came with it. Do you have the usb hub with your car?
I have a CX-3 2019 Grand Touring but I know I do not have Android Auto, they only gave me a navigation card instead of Android Auto.


To WebDevDan
I am not sure if I have the phone icon next to the usb port.

There is no software. I'm not entirely sure you understand what it is you're after.

• Android Auto (or Apple CarPlay) requires both an app on your phone and USB ports (the hub) that support it (Or a hack, which on our cars requires disassembling the dash, wires, serial ports... a lot of work, instructions can be found at https://mazdatweaks.com/, and I have no further information nor have I tried that).
• If the USB ports on your car do not have a phone icon then they do not support android auto natively, they are only designed for media files. You must install a USB hub that does.
• If the USB ports on your have that icon, then you already have android auto. Download it on your phone, connect it with a USB cord, and you'll be done.
• The navigation SD card has no bearing on Android Auto whatsoever.

 

[WebDevDan]

To WebDevDan

Ok. So I just confirmed, my car does not have the phone icon next to the usb, its a standard hub. What's next?

Buy the USB hub that does and install as I described. That's what I had to do.

 

[SlyCoopers]

To add some additional information

mazdatweaks was unofficial android auto mod that developers rigged into working after modifing the mazda headunit system. Mazda pushes dealers to update it sometimes even against your knowledge to prevent unauthorized access (and loss of sales for aa/cp hardware). I havent kept up with mazdatweaks in a while since it kept falling behind mazda pushing updates and my dealer secretly updating it without telling me but theres a good chance mazdatweaks isnt an option depending on your software level.

Using mazdatweaks you could use the original usb hub but again this is unofficial rig for aa/cp. Im not even sure cp worked on it since aa was more developer friendly to get working but regardless this was an issue when the retrofit kits came out by mazda seeing as in 2016+ many dealers promised official android auto/carplay would just be a simple software update in the future which we believed considering mazdatweaks got it working almost perfectly through software mods.

The official usb hub in the retrofit kit sold by mazda for official android auto/carplay connectivity has a thicker cable and is a higher standard. I believe its usb 3.0 speed/power as opposed to 2.0 or 1.#(?) which is in the default usb hub. It does allow better data transfer speeds + charging power. The other thing is mazda's programming in the headunit for official aa/cp checks for this hub. Im not sure if its a power/speed check or maybe even proprietary serials or added chipsets in the usb hub but long story short it wont work without it.


(many of us are still irritated about this change since mazda basically is fighting developers/users from installing android auto on cars by requiring proprietary parts you have to pay for and also modifying their software to ban sideloading of this feature)

 

[WebDevDan]

theres a good chance mazdatweaks isnt an option depending on your software level.

[...]

I believe its usb 3.0 speed/power as opposed to 2.0 or 1.#(?) which is in the default usb hub. It does allow better data transfer speeds + charging power. The other thing is mazda's programming in the headunit for official aa/cp checks for this hub. Im not sure if its a power/speed check or maybe even proprietary serials or added chipsets in the usb hub but long story short it wont work without it.

Haven't tried it on mine yet but there are instructions on how to do it with a serial cable for newer software versions. I have a serial to USB adapter and all of the wires necessary, just don't feel like disassembling everything again.

And yes, the official hub is quick charge (I think it's USB 3.0, but Quick Charge 2.0 standard), which is awesome.

 

[SlyCoopers]

Haven't tried it on mine yet but there are instructions on how to do it with a serial cable for newer software versions. I have a serial to USB adapter and all of the wires necessary, just don't feel like disassembling everything again.

And yes, the official hub is quick charge (I think it's USB 3.0, but Quick Charge 2.0 standard), which is awesome.

Oh wow I didnt even look that far into it, but looking at that how-to for the newer versions using the serial method it almost doesnt seem to be worth the added potential of breaking/bricking something. (This jeep wrangler is teaching me the values of staying stock since everything seems to fail on it)

 

[EternalBlue]

That's what I found - in spite you (and me) have similarly looking panels, in order to have Apple CarPlay we need retrofit kit since it's panel has a different, higher voltage USB module. In order to have CarPlay the connected phone needs a constant charge thus the new panel with the different USB module and a new wiring. I'm pissed off but retrofit kit is required (approx. $150 on Amazon) and needs to be installed Then there is a few ways (including DIY) to download software. Or you can ask dealer to do everything - my quotes from 2 different dealerships (one in NJ and another - in CT) were $369 and $399 including parts, labor and software. Needs about 2 hours.

 

[EternalBlue]

Funny, but nothing like that in US - I mean special campaign in Canada. Apple CarPlay available as a dealer installed accessory and cost a bit less than $400. No special campaign, no any discounts. My car was delivered on 12/10/19 and was made in June 2019.

 

[aavlee]

Yes, you have to take out the USB hub because AA/CP is handled by the hub. It's pretty easy though. I linked a YouTube video of where to drill to remove it without gutting the dash. I didn't take pictures, but here's how to do it:

• Remove the glove box (squeeze, yank)
• Remove the passenger center kick panel (yank)
• Reach waaaaaay up into the glove box area and push the two panels off in front of and behind the head unit screen. You can use the handle of a screw driver or something if you need additional reach. Expect your arm to get well beat up by all the pokey bits of metal in there.
• Mask every exposed edge around the screen/head unit. When you pull it out it WILL scratch the crap out of the dash if you're not careful
• Unscrew and remove the HU. Disconnect the cables.
• Drill out the hub carefully as demonstrated in the youtube video. It will be destroyed. It doesn't matter. Pull it out along with the old cables.
• Wrap the wires the new hub came with in the foam tape they came with. Be careful to do it lengthwise as indicated in the instructions.
• Snake the wires down from the HU area to the glove box area, then out through the front of the hole for the hub. There will be lots of excess. Connect the hub. Do NOT push it into place yet.
• Connect up the HU. Test everything.
• If it all works, bundle up the slack and tuck it somewhere nice and neat, then reassemble your car.

Once you have the various panels removed everything should be pretty readily apparent.

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the write up so far. I've gotten the old box removed via the drill method, however I'm having a hell of a hard time snaking the new cables through. Head unit/screen to glove box will be no problem but I can't get cables from the old/new usb box area to the glove box. Did you have a CD player in your cx3? it seems like mine is blocking most of the area, I even tried fishing a bent coat hanger through with no luck.

Cheers,
A

 

[WebDevDan]

Yes, you have to take out the USB hub because AA/CP is handled by the hub. It's pretty easy though. I linked a YouTube video of where to drill to remove it without gutting the dash. I didn't take pictures, but here's how to do it:

• Remove the glove box (squeeze, yank)
• Remove the passenger center kick panel (yank)
• Reach waaaaaay up into the glove box area and push the two panels off in front of and behind the head unit screen. You can use the handle of a screw driver or something if you need additional reach. Expect your arm to get well beat up by all the pokey bits of metal in there.
• Mask every exposed edge around the screen/head unit. When you pull it out it WILL scratch the crap out of the dash if you're not careful
• Unscrew and remove the HU. Disconnect the cables.
• Drill out the hub carefully as demonstrated in the youtube video. It will be destroyed. It doesn't matter. Pull it out along with the old cables.
• Wrap the wires the new hub came with in the foam tape they came with. Be careful to do it lengthwise as indicated in the instructions.
• Snake the wires down from the HU area to the glove box area, then out through the front of the hole for the hub. There will be lots of excess. Connect the hub. Do NOT push it into place yet.
• Connect up the HU. Test everything.
• If it all works, bundle up the slack and tuck it somewhere nice and neat, then reassemble your car.

Once you have the various panels removed everything should be pretty readily apparent.

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the write up so far. I've gotten the old box removed via the drill method, however I'm having a hell of a hard time snaking the new cables through. Head unit/screen to glove box will be no problem but I can't get cables from the old/new usb box area to the glove box. Did you have a CD player in your cx3? it seems like mine is blocking most of the area, I even tried fishing a bent coat hanger through with no luck.

Cheers,
A

Nope, no CD player. 2019s don't have them, which I've come to hate. But... I can see how that might be a problem. If you haven't already yanked the old cables entirely, you could zip tie the old one to the new one and pull it through (gently) as you pull the old one out. Otherwise there will likely be some contortions and a lot of swearing involved trying to snake it through. With the hole wide open in the front though where the old one was you should be able to shine a light through and start finding places to poke things though.

 

[aavlee]

Nope, no CD player. 2019s don't have them, which I've come to hate. But... I can see how that might be a problem. If you haven't already yanked the old cables entirely, you could zip tie the old one to the new one and pull it through (gently) as you pull the old one out. Otherwise there will likely be some contortions and a lot of swearing involved trying to snake it through. With the hole wide open in the front though where the old one was you should be able to shine a light through and start finding places to poke things though.

Ah okay, the old cable is bundled and taped together, there must also be some clips or tie downs along the way because there is basically no play in the cable once it heads deeper into the dash. I think I'm going to have to take apart the rest of the trim panels as per the "regular" instructions. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything obvious before going through with it. Thanks for the reply!

 

[cx3Dom]

There is no software. I'm not entirely sure you understand what it is you're after.

• Android Auto (or Apple CarPlay) requires both an app on your phone and USB ports (the hub) that support it (Or a hack, which on our cars requires disassembling the dash, wires, serial ports... a lot of work, instructions can be found at https://mazdatweaks.com/, and I have no further information nor have I tried that).
• If the USB ports on your car do not have a phone icon then they do not support android auto natively, they are only designed for media files. You must install a USB hub that does.
• If the USB ports on your have that icon, then you already have android auto. Download it on your phone, connect it with a USB cord, and you'll be done.
• The navigation SD card has no bearing on Android Auto whatsoever.

Hey, I'm new to this and trying to work out what to do.
1. If I have the old usb hub, why can't I use the mazdatweaks software to update to Android Auto? Other than getting usb3 power on the new hub, what else am I gaining? Afterall you connect your phone to the hub via bluetooth I assume not usb. Kinda bit crap to have to have the phone wired in constantly. Maybe I'm missing something here?

2. Does a custom install on the old usb hub mean Mazda would no longer do servicing etc? I doubt I have a warranty being the 3rd owner of my xc3.

Thanks

 

[Sergio Nayar]

Hey, I'm new to this and trying to work out what to do.
1. If I have the old usb hub, why can't I use the mazdatweaks software to update to Android Auto? Other than getting usb3 power on the new hub, what else am I gaining? Afterall you connect your phone to the hub via bluetooth I assume not usb. Kinda bit crap to have to have the phone wired in constantly. Maybe I'm missing something here?

2. Does a custom install on the old usb hub mean Mazda would no longer do servicing etc? I doubt I have a warranty being the 3rd owner of my xc3.

Thanks

I didn't have the knowledge before I upgraded my CX3 to android Auto, but as far as I know, the most important thing you will LOOSE if you upgrade the module is touchscreen support inside AA. Something I dislike about it. Other than that, having native AA provides smoother, lag free experience.

Enviado desde mi GM1917 mediante Tapatalk

 

[chuckchef]

Did it myself and saved hundreds. The USB hub was $110 on aliexpress, I downloaded the firmware update. It took about an hour to remove old hub and replace with the new 1.
Works great, but not touchscreen

 

[chuckchef]

did it myself. $105 cdn for the parts, under an hour for install

 

[jasjas]

Is here someone who needs an new USB hub (type for AA en CP)?
I ordered 2 by mistake on Aliexpress.
Please send me a message maybe we can arrange something.

 

[ranter]

Is here someone who needs an new USB hub (type for AA en CP)?
I ordered 2 by mistake on Aliexpress.
Please send me a message maybe we can arrange something.
View attachment 24210

Hi @jasjas I would be interested. Have you got a link to the one you have for my reference?

I'm based in Ireland, so would need to arrange shipping. Are you able to DM me so we can chat?

 

[rostyk35]

did it myself. $105 cdn for the parts, under an hour for install

Same thing
Works just fine