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I follow Techmoan a lot of the time. I'm using a new A119 in the rear and a DDPai M6 Plus at the front. Both seem to perform well.

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Intalling Dash Cam and Rear Cam

Hi all,
Firstly, Highly appreciate ALL tutorials and info people have contributed on the forum. :D:D:D:D:D:D

I have a few questions regarding the camera installation by @ishtalk also the one that @Smarties CX-3http://www.cx3forum.com/forum/electronics-audio/4970-installing-rear-dash-cam.html did
You ran the wires from the front of the car to the rear up through the roof lining. How did you get the cable into that area?

1) Did you run it along the top of the windscreen,then towards the back, along the top of the B-pillar, and then into the roof lining at the C-pillar (where the CX-3 has that small rear quarter glass), and then finally into weather tube that holds the washer water (connects the hinge of the boot and the car body)? What about side airbags - anywhere that wires shouldn't be? Besides the A-pillar as @anchorman cautioned.
I'm confident how to run the wires in the boot area (removing the plastic garnish etc). It's just the roof lining that I didn't even know had a space in it. :eek:

2) As I'm installing the reverse camera, (in the original space that some CX-3's have it factory fitted), it requires power (both positive and negative). Can I just tap into the reverse lights for this? Or would you suggest otherwise? Note that the wires to supply power are only 1.5m in length. I suspect that these are sense wires, as the connector that the camera uses for video(connects to the screen unit) is TRRP, that also carries a charge. Camera has an always on feature, so the 'extra' power wires would be to auto switch to reverse when I put the car in reverse gear.

3) Is there a reason that you used a 15A in the new circuit, why not a lower current fuse, like 5A? I know that original circuit needs the 15A fuse to keep it working as normal.

Note: This is not wired to the Mazda factor screen. I'm installing a separate 4inch screen under the rear view mirror, using your method of add-a-circuit fuse, hard-wiring the screen unit via the accessory fuse.

Thanks in advance!!:nerd:
 
For the rear camera, I added a 12v supply along the floor then put a 12v socket behind the trim. From there I ran the supply chord up the C pillar and under the headliner and then through the umbilical to the back door. If you get interference on a digital radio station, it is coming from the 12v adapter. Good quality cameras like DDPai have suppression built in the adapter.
 
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For the rear camera, I added a 12v supply along the floor then put a 12v socket behind the trim. From there I ran the supply chord up the C pillar and under the headliner and then through the umbilical to the back door. If you get interference on a digital radio station, it is coming from the 12v adapter. Good quality cameras like DDPai have suppression built in the adapter.

Here is a Thinkware dash cam. Bit bigger than the Blackvue's but I do like having the screen.
I stuck it to the iActiveS camera housing and that works nicely with the wide angle. I might adjust it so that the cord goes under the housing and out to the camera through the rearview mirror arm hole.
I also drive with the seat fairly far back and so I don't have any viewing obstruction issues. Perhaps someone who sits forward more wouldn't like it mounted there.
I found 2 empty fuse slots to which one was always on and one was normal. Checked it with a volt meter and tied each into an "add a circuit" so that they are fused.
Cord was ran as normal in the headliner, down the A pillar zip tied, down the rubber door sil etc etc and away we go.
I'll pickup a rear camera soon as that just plugs directly into the front camera with a normal jack that you'd just run to the back... @anchorman you can fly out here and install that part for me as I'm not looking forward to it.
 

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