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Yes it's available - it has to by law but you will have to either go and buy it on a disc or you can view it by registering online if you can demonstrate you are a motor trader or suitably qualified. The price is €5 per hour in Europe and I would imagine you would be looking at $5 per hour in the USA.

The disc will be quite expensive. Is the anything in particular you are looking for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I hoped someone would have made it available for free like for other Mazda models but I guess it's too early.

What I am looking for right now is the wiring diagrams to find a suitable power hook up (except directly at the battery) for my Bose active subwoofer project.
 

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I hoped someone would have made it available for free like for other Mazda models but I guess it's too early.

What I am looking for right now is the wiring diagrams to find a suitable power hook up (except directly at the battery) for my Bose active subwoofer project.
What is the amp power, 150W?
You would need 6...8 mm2 wire for 150W (5 meters long wire). There won't be any that big cables in the trunk area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
100W and I am sure this is peak. The power wire of the active Bose subwoofer harness is 0,5-0,75 mm² at best. I don't see a reason going larger than this. I was thinking about picking up power at the OEM amplifier under the RH seat.
 

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100W + 0,5mm2 +3 m cable lengt = smoke.
With 5 % voltage loss 2,5 mm2 is minimum.
You don't gain any profit with bigger amplifier power if big portion of the voltage gets lost in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I agree with you that it makes little sense loosing half of the voltage in the way, but I am also just reporting what I found in the harness of the active Bose sub.
 

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100W + 0,5mm2 +3 m cable lengt = smoke.
With 5 % voltage loss 2,5 mm2 is minimum.
You don't gain any profit with bigger amplifier power if big portion of the voltage gets lost in the way.
From memory from my university days, most sound systems run what is essentially a constant voltage setup at the speaker side of the equation, usually in the order of between 70 to 100 volts. This different to the power feed to the amp which will have a different power rating. Assuming the higher number and using a derivation of the standard power calculation of P=(volts) V x (current) I, the current flow assuming 100 watts output peak means the current would peak at around 1 amp at the speakers. Using the standard cable size versus current table in AS3000 (Australian Electrical Standard) then 0.75mm2 cable would work fine and still meet the voltage drop allowance.

Nothing wrong with using bigger cable, however it really isn't necessary given the modest power output and relatively short distance. This why the sounds systems you buy off the shelf tend to come with smallish cable to the speakers.

Happy to be corrected if I am wrong though.
 

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. Assuming the higher number and using a derivation of the standard power calculation of P=(volts) V x (current) I, the current flow assuming 100 watts output peak means the current would peak at around 1 amp at the speakers.Happy to be corrected if I am wrong though.
Atlest I was talking about amplifier power feed wire.

Current between battery and amplifier is totally different than current between amplifier and speakers.

P = U x I -> I = P / U ->
100 w / 12 V = 8,33 A.
 

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. Assuming the higher number and using a derivation of the standard power calculation of P=(volts) V x (current) I, the current flow assuming 100 watts output peak means the current would peak at around 1 amp at the speakers.Happy to be corrected if I am wrong though.
Atleast I was talking about amplifier power feed wire.

Current between battery and amplifier is totally different than current between amplifier and speakers.

P = U x I -> I = P / U ->
100 w / 12 V = 8,33 A.
 

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I really wish Wattage measurements were universally listed in RMS as it is in most audiophile circles. specifying it in Peak values is totally meaningless and is always misused by manufacturers to give bloated output figures. And with the RMS figures it should also mention THD at a given output.
 

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Atleast I was talking about amplifier power feed wire.

Current between battery and amplifier is totally different than current between amplifier and speakers.

P = U x I -> I = P / U ->
100 w / 12 V = 8,33 A.
Point taken - apologies
 

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100W and I am sure this is peak. The power wire of the active Bose subwoofer harness is 0,5-0,75 mm² at best. I don't see a reason going larger than this. I was thinking about picking up power at the OEM amplifier under the RH seat.
Hi h3rb3rt,

I bought same active subwoofer as yours. Did you install it successfully?
If yes, how do you install it?
There are 5 cables to be connected.
2 for power(Blue and Black): Where do you connected? to Battery directly or to original audio system?
How to connect the other 3 cables?
Thank you.
 

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