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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to diagnose an electrical issue. Anyone have a 2016 CX-3 sport? I'd accept either a 2015 or 2017 as well. Would love a quick photo of the opened fuse-box under the hood as I would like to compare to my fuse/relay layout. Currently my car does not start and need the image for comparison ASAP!

If I don't get this fixed myself, I will have to get a tow to the dealer for an EXPENSIVE repair.

Thank you!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did find the fuse/relay diagrams/descriptions. Unfortunately they are not descriptive enough. Thanks for the links though!
 

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Find anything? If the picture from your previous post is ACTUAL, are you not missing fuses 7 (Instrument cluster) and 17 (AT --transaxle control)? hope i'm being helpful....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Find anything? If the picture from your previous post is ACTUAL, are you not missing fuses 7 (Instrument cluster) and 17 (AT --transaxle control)? hope i'm being helpful....
The photo is actual. 17 (AT - transaxle control) is not on all vehicles as designated by the "" However, not sure why 16 (AT PUMP Transaxel control system) has a fuse, so I could try that as well.
Not sure about fuse 7 but I believe everything works fine with respect to the instrument cluster, but I do have a 10A fuse backup and could put it in. Am almost certain this will not change anything.
The only issue would be that I placed one fuse in an incorrect slot.

23546


NOTE: fuse 3 (Sunroof) has a 10A fuse, but I do not have a sunroof. I had taken it out, but apparently not for the photo.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE:
Car starting problem is fixed. Apparently there is supposed to be a 15A fuse in slot 17(AT Transaxle control system), AT standing for Automatic Transmission I am assuming.
Car starts normally when a fuse is inserted. Given that I was pulling/checking one fuse at a time it makes sence that given a empty fuse socket on slot 16 was where I placed the fuse back, instead of in slot 17(See photo below). Starting the car is possible without a fuse in slot 16 but NOT with slot 17! Whether I need on a fuse in slot 16 is questionable, but I now have one there! I also have a fuse in slot 7 (Instrument cluster) regardless of need and it might just solve my lack of odometer brightness...find it very difficult to read in the daytime.

An elated shout out to NSRubyRhod for pointing these discrepancies!!

23548
 

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Glad to be of help. You had the idea of posting a photo along with your detailed description of the problem. I just have a lot of time on my hands ;-). Are you still at square one with the battery issue? Hope you get to the bottom of all this without wasting too much time or spending too much money.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Glad to be of help. You had the idea of posting a photo along with your detailed description of the problem. I just have a lot of time on my hands ;-). Are you still at square one with the battery issue? Hope you get to the bottom of all this without wasting too much time or spending too much money.
Called the dealer to get a "spec" on the "Parasitic Draw" for the CX-3 but they were clueless. Think I deeded to talk to a real mechanic! I really am at Square One with the battery drain as I may have found some unnecessary draw but don't believe it was enough to kill a battery over night. Been getting a very low draw (6-10mA) which seems almost too low. Perhaps the intermittent nature is working to make me think it is OK! Hard to hook up a battery monitor to alert me when the battery drops below 12V or so as the Quiescent current of the monitoring circuit could itself drain the battery. In the interm, I will attach a 4A battery charger to the battery for the overnight hours or for long periods of inactivity.
 

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I am curious to know the outcome. Cheers,

r.
 
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