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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So far I love my 2016 CX3 GT AWD does great in the snow too. However I've noticed a hesitation that happens between 3000 and 4000 rpm. Using my code reader I have live view of what is happening. It knocks the timing back hard at about 2800 only when the throttle is pushed ( not downshifting at the same rpm). The power loss/hesitation lines up exactly with the timing retard on the graph. I've done the plugs and the knock sensor. I'm out of ideas....
 

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Two things I would suggest in this order are the intake tube and then seeing if you can replicate the same issue in 'sport' mode if you have that feature on the bottom of the shifter plate.

Ive had a bad history of mazda intake tube rubber in previous vehicles getting microscopic holes to entire splits within a few years of ownership and am still surprised mazda uses the same material still. It might be more of a climate thing and being exposed to extreme temps which increases the chances of this happening ie people who live in snowy areas vs tropical who might never experience this. This made my throttle go wonky a few times on multiple cars but not sure if itd effect timing so precisely as an obd sensor would read but still worth a look.

Sportmode is self explanatory and I would say to use it to diagnose a problem thats noticable on certain rpm levels since it would give you a second look on whether its reproducable at all times or just in regular eco driving and might help a shop in troubleshooting it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you so much for replying! I used carb cleaner on the intake rubber and didn't sense any drop in rpm (that's the method I've used in the past to find vacuum leaks).

Support mode and normal mode have the same exact issue. The second picture I posted was in sport mode. It's directly related to the throttle under a load. So you're right it could be a vacuum thing I'm going to keep chasing. It seems like if you're not pulling a lot of vacuum at a quarter throttle or so before it has pulled timing it is faster there's more torque than there is if you push the throttle even halfway.
 

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Best thing would be to completely turn off climate control, go in to 2nd or 3rd gear in manual mode so it doesn't downshift, floor it at 2000 rpms, and stay in it until after the hesitation. I'm new to skyactiv so not sure what PIDS are available. But accel pedal position, throttle plate position, spark advance across all cylinders, knock retard, vvt advance, maf voltage, and g/s would be ideal.

It's pretty normal for engines to run high timing at cruise for efficiency. When you accelerate and engine load crosses a certain threshold, the ecu will switch to a different timing table. May be feeling AC clutch disconnecting, VVT angle changing, knock retard cutting timing, ecu switching tables, etc etc etc.

As for vacuum leaks, watch your long term fuel trims. If they're +/- 5%, you shouldn't have an issue there.
 

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Two things I would suggest in this order are the intake tube and then seeing if you can replicate the same issue in 'sport' mode if you have that feature on the bottom of the shifter plate.

Ive had a bad history of mazda intake tube rubber in previous vehicles getting microscopic holes to entire splits within a few years of ownership and am still surprised mazda uses the same material still. It might be more of a climate thing and being exposed to extreme temps which increases the chances of this happening ie people who live in snowy areas vs tropical who might never experience this. This made my throttle go wonky a few times on multiple cars but not sure if itd effect timing so precisely as an obd sensor would read but still worth a look.

Sportmode is self explanatory and I would say to use it to diagnose a problem thats noticable on certain rpm levels since it would give you a second look on whether its reproducable at all times or just in regular eco driving and might help a shop in troubleshooting it.
Thank you will have a look at the tube.
 
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