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Does a new battery have to be replaced at the dealer because of learning the systems, or can you also replace a battery yourself without the learning of the systems ?
 

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Can be done yourself, but you need the correct battery (deep cycle and stop/start ignition optimized). Then you put the car into learning/re-calibration mode.
Search the forums, I learnt that all here.
 

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I'm not sure what the start-stop system is, so my comments below do not reflect this option.

I just replaced the battery in my 2016 CX-3 GT yesterday because it was noticeably slower to crank the engine over in the mornings. The replacement battery on the CDN version is a Group 35 (this represents the overall dimensions of the battery case), with a minimum of 520 (CCA) cold cranking amps. I replaced mine with a slightly higher rated battery with 640 CCA, because Canada!

I've replaced batteries in every vehicle I have ever owned, plus a few in my kids vehicles so it's not a difficult job. Because this vehicle has many electronic options that I've never had before, I decided to watch a youtube video and learned that if you connect a battery tender to the terminal clamps BEFORE you remove them from the battery, you will not loose your radio presets. It also allows other information stored in the onboard computers to be retained. Apparently, if the radio looses power it might not work until reset with a code. By using the battery tender I was able to replace the battery without any problem and everything works as it did before.

It is an easy job and all you need is a 10mm deep socket, since the bolts on the battery hold down clamp and terminal cables are the same size. Remember when removing the cables from the battery it's negative first, then positive. When you reinstall attach the positive first, then negative.
 

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After looking online I understand what the Mazda iStop system is and I'm glad I don't have that on my car. It sounds like it would be annoying and doesn't really save that much fuel.

Back to this thread, since iStop doesn't use the starter motor to restart the engine, I'm not sure how this option would require a different battery. In this case the OP should check with the dealer to be sure to get the proper battery replacement.
 

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Does a new battery have to be replaced at the dealer because of learning the systems, or can you also replace a battery yourself without the learning of the systems ?

Check out the posts on this thread from a couple of months ago :-


Seems there's no real problems with doing it yourself. Note that re-calibration of the Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) probably won't apply to your year car as it is likely to have the ABS method rather than individual tyre valve sensors.

Main thing is to ensure you get a suitable battery designed for a Start-Stop system, meeting or exceeding the minimum technical specifications such as Ah and Cold Cranking as well as meeting the obvious physical dimensions.
 

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I wouldnt take it to the dealer for anything they tried to charge me 900 for a sway bar and a local mechanic did it for me for 450. dont trust the dealers
Once my car is out of warranty I never return to the dealer for service, because they are not as convenient and cost more. I do most of my own maintenance and use a trusted shop for anything that's out of my comfort zone.
 

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Just changed the battery, 2018 g's fwd. Couldn't be easier. Never done this, checked out a YouTube video 1st. Just remember to remove negative terminal 1st, replace last. Lost only avg mileage and trip counter.
 

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Just changed the battery, 2018 g's fwd. Couldn't be easier. Never done this, checked out a YouTube video 1st. Just remember to remove negative terminal 1st, replace last. Lost only avg mileage and trip counter.
Great. Out of curiosity, what size battery did you replace with? The physical size...
 

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The Mazda CX-3 (NA Spec) uses a Group 35 battery. I bought a Diehard battery from my local Carquest Autoparts store. The specifications for a Group 35 are as follows:
View attachment 23922
Agree, but I've already come across first hand, that its region specific, and sometimes(in my case) even then its still differs. Due to the tray that the battery fits in, there's sometimes a "lip" that the battery case has to fit under and sometimes there's not.... Dealer advised this and showed me (my Cx3 vs one they had in for service)
Anyway, was just curious. Fitted mine a few weeks back.

 

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Agree, but I've already come across first hand, that its region specific, and sometimes(in my case) even then its still differs. Due to the tray that the battery fits in, there's sometimes a "lip" that the battery case has to fit under and sometimes there's not.... Dealer advised this and showed me (my Cx3 vs one they had in for service)
Anyway, was just curious. Fitted mine a few weeks back.

My NA Spec CX-3 also has the lip around the tray, so a larger battery would not physically fit into the tray. The Group 35 fits perfectly and the battery hold down clamp also worked as before. The OEM battery from my car was almost identical in size to the one I replaced it with. I could have replaced the plastic insulator wrap that was on the OEM battery, but I neglected to put it on before I installed the battery into the tray, and then it was a pain in the butt to get over the plastic handle that is attached to the top of the new battery. That handle made it quite easy to lift the battery into its compartment so I left it attached.
The overall size of the battery I used varies slightly from the size quoted by st3v3cx-3 above.
The UK spec size noted was length 232mm, width 173mm and height 225mm.
The NA spec one I used was length 230mm, width 176mm and height 225mm.
 
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