replacement battery
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100 Posts
Can be done yourself, but you need the correct battery (deep cycle and stop/start ignition optimized). Then you put the car into learning/re-calibration mode.
Search the forums, I learnt that all here.
Search the forums, I learnt that all here.
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108 Posts
I'm not sure what the start-stop system is, so my comments below do not reflect this option.
I just replaced the battery in my 2016 CX-3 GT yesterday because it was noticeably slower to crank the engine over in the mornings. The replacement battery on the CDN version is a Group 35 (this represents the overall dimensions of the battery case), with a minimum of 520 (CCA) cold cranking amps. I replaced mine with a slightly higher rated battery with 640 CCA, because Canada!
I've replaced batteries in every vehicle I have ever owned, plus a few in my kids vehicles so it's not a difficult job. Because this vehicle has many electronic options that I've never had before, I decided to watch a youtube video and learned that if you connect a battery tender to the terminal clamps BEFORE you remove them from the battery, you will not loose your radio presets. It also allows other information stored in the onboard computers to be retained. Apparently, if the radio looses power it might not work until reset with a code. By using the battery tender I was able to replace the battery without any problem and everything works as it did before.
It is an easy job and all you need is a 10mm deep socket, since the bolts on the battery hold down clamp and terminal cables are the same size. Remember when removing the cables from the battery it's negative first, then positive. When you reinstall attach the positive first, then negative.
I just replaced the battery in my 2016 CX-3 GT yesterday because it was noticeably slower to crank the engine over in the mornings. The replacement battery on the CDN version is a Group 35 (this represents the overall dimensions of the battery case), with a minimum of 520 (CCA) cold cranking amps. I replaced mine with a slightly higher rated battery with 640 CCA, because Canada!
I've replaced batteries in every vehicle I have ever owned, plus a few in my kids vehicles so it's not a difficult job. Because this vehicle has many electronic options that I've never had before, I decided to watch a youtube video and learned that if you connect a battery tender to the terminal clamps BEFORE you remove them from the battery, you will not loose your radio presets. It also allows other information stored in the onboard computers to be retained. Apparently, if the radio looses power it might not work until reset with a code. By using the battery tender I was able to replace the battery without any problem and everything works as it did before.
It is an easy job and all you need is a 10mm deep socket, since the bolts on the battery hold down clamp and terminal cables are the same size. Remember when removing the cables from the battery it's negative first, then positive. When you reinstall attach the positive first, then negative.
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100 Posts
Stop/Start = iStop and e-loop
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108 Posts
Going to have to look up this option because I still don't understand what it is.
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108 Posts
After looking online I understand what the Mazda iStop system is and I'm glad I don't have that on my car. It sounds like it would be annoying and doesn't really save that much fuel.
Back to this thread, since iStop doesn't use the starter motor to restart the engine, I'm not sure how this option would require a different battery. In this case the OP should check with the dealer to be sure to get the proper battery replacement.
Back to this thread, since iStop doesn't use the starter motor to restart the engine, I'm not sure how this option would require a different battery. In this case the OP should check with the dealer to be sure to get the proper battery replacement.
BATTERIES
Do not last for ever, sooner or later the car will need to have the start battery replaced, as a general rule you may get say 3 years from a standard off the shelf Battery.
Watch out for batteries which have been lying around.
Initially OEM batteries may last a little longer as being purchased factory to factory.
Off the shelf batteries, now that is a differrny story as in store batteries loose charge over time however there is light at the end oif the tunne if the vendor offers a battery guarantee .
However some dealers will sell the oldest batter in the store first .
At least road tires have dates .
You would hope that batteries would be dated. Keep hoping !
The Battery section of owners Manual page 9-4 may have a mis print when it comes to Battery Amperage at it relates to i stop and i eloop, the two AH ratings of Battery suitable for the CX3 are recomended 55 AH or 65 AH.
A garage mechanic told me that my battery was the bigger capasity type or 65 amp. ( 2 LTR engine )
There are many battery manufacuures out there, there is no one physical size that fits all , be carefull of fitment size and by the way batteries should be secured firmly fixed in position.
Home battery charging should be carried out with both terminals removed in order the protect the computer ?
Battery chargers are not always reliable.
A digital volt meter would be helpfull.
We need to addess jump starting some time, this needs more information ?
Biger engines 2.5 ltr CX3 's. may need bigger capasity batteries. ?
WEAR EYE PROTECTION.
2018 CX 3 Soul red 2 ltr orrigional battery.
Check out the posts on this thread from a couple of months ago :-
Should I change the car battery myself?
Hey guys, This might/will be my first time changing the battery in my Mazda 2015 petrol CX3. But is it even worth it changing it myself? I have the tools and some knowledge but will follow videos and tutorials and research. My only concern is my fob key and radio will lock and not work.... as...
www.cx3forum.com
Seems there's no real problems with doing it yourself. Note that re-calibration of the Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) probably won't apply to your year car as it is likely to have the ABS method rather than individual tyre valve sensors.
Main thing is to ensure you get a suitable battery designed for a Start-Stop system, meeting or exceeding the minimum technical specifications such as Ah and Cold Cranking as well as meeting the obvious physical dimensions.
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I wouldnt take it to the dealer for anything they tried to charge me 900 for a sway bar and a local mechanic did it for me for 450. dont trust the dealers
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108 Posts
Once my car is out of warranty I never return to the dealer for service, because they are not as convenient and cost more. I do most of my own maintenance and use a trusted shop for anything that's out of my comfort zone.
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