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Discussion Starter #81
Finally pulled the trigger on my tires! I went with the bfg G Force Comp 2 a/s. I was on the fence between these and the ko2’s but I wanted a wider tire which wasn’t available with the ko2. I went with a 245/50r16 on the stock sport wheels. Did some snowy mountain driving today and it made a world of difference caompared to a rock tires!! Very happy with my choice
Looks good! Just out of curiosity which tire is the new one on the picture of the side by side?
To my knowledge oem 16 size is 215/60 16, wouldnt 245/50 16 theoretically be smaller sidewall but larger width/side bulge? That picture makes the new tires look massive compared to the left (assuming thats original). Looks like voodoo to me lol
 

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215/60-16 should be about 2% larger than 245/50-16.

That said, in the comparison photo, the newer looking tires appear significantly larger than the older looking tires. Maybe a typo?
 

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Looks good! Just out of curiosity which tire is the new one on the picture of the side by side?
To my knowledge oem 16 size is 215/60 16, wouldnt 245/50 16 theoretically be smaller sidewall but larger width/side bulge? That picture makes the new tires look massive compared to the left (assuming thats original). Looks like voodoo to me lol[/QUOTE]


The new tire is on the right! Sorry for the bad pic quality it’s on my phone. The left tire is the stock 215/60r16 that had 38k on it. They don’t rub at all but I have noticed my speedo is off a little, not bad though!
 

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(Dont mind the over explaining if you already knew most of it, Im posting it for future reference to people who might have similar questions without knowing how things will work)

On your previous post you mentioned doing 225/55/18 for about an 1" lift but in reality it would get you maybe 1/2" lift under extremely overinflated tires which isnt recommended for other reasons. The sad reality of this type of "lift" is that unless its a substantial vertical change, its almost negligible because tires have a tendency to "squish" or compress enough under the middle point of the wheel where the main weight is applied downward. Similarly getting a wider width tire but keeping stock oem wheel width isnt going to be a direct vertical sidewall height increase but more of a slant measurement (similar to how a 40" tv is not 40" high although this is an extreme example).

Going even further to 235/55/18 (not sure if you meant 225 as previously mentioned in the page before) would push those dimensions even further. You would have to take into account new sidewall height which is about 6mm higher after all calculations from the 225 because the middle value, the 55, is a percentage of the width to calculate sidewall so higher percentage or higher width = "bigger" sidewall (not the same as taller/straight vertical height).


Taking most of the dimensions into consideration you would *MOST LIKELY* be ok with 235/55/18 city driving but hitting bumps(possibly potholes) or maximum wheel turning could make contact unless you crawl through it. When I measured my new 16 wheel specs and the tire size in the first post I came close to contact but was able to clear most extreme tests I ran such as hitting low curbs at certain speeds/ sharp turns over bumps/ driving on sand like an idiot etc. Granted its unlikely that anyone will be doing these things for daily driving, but when you decide to go offroad, in certain conditions, city rules and clearances dont apply. You will almost always make contact if you take it through abusive terrain with 235/55/18.
What about 215/60/18 it is the same diameter, but a borrower tire. I am going to buy them soon. I need ground clearance asap. I almost lose my front bumper last time, and I was crawling most of the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
What about 215/60/18 it is the same diameter, but a borrower tire. I am going to buy them soon. I need ground clearance asap. I almost lose my front bumper last time, and I was crawling most of the time.
I hate to dissappoint you but posting on every tire thread around the forum asking if different sizes fit probably isnt going to get you any answers considering very few people have gone with larger tires and have experience to give feedback if they even run the sizes you are asking for. The model is still relatively new (just hit its 4th year)with a growing userbase on the forums but nowhere near as massive as like a mazda3 forum which has over 15 years of production including a performance segment. I try to help as much as I can based on my experience with tinkering but we cant cover all bases.

All I can suggest is use a tire calculator site and do some comparisons and measurements of the car and available room with stock tires and see what the calc gives you in numbers for the new tire based on stock/current. I use this for my cars since I had an old tacoma back in the day yet still applies to most cars based on its algorithm but you can find others too. I cant stress the point to do measurements yourself and to not believe people in the internet that give you a "probably" answer without seeing proof of their words.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc

That being said I think youll have more trouble with rubbing with that 215/60/18. I ran the number in comparison and while we cant use the sidewall height numbers since its different naturally for 16 vs 18 size wheel, the overlay says its slight larger than this guy's 215/70/60 who said hes already hitting the fenders and has the black plastic trim popping out. If you are really hurting for front clearance the lift kit thread from earlier will guide you to front spacers but only the front will work. Rear spacers will not work. Its not the best option but probably a more reasonable route if front clearance is an absolute must.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=215-70r16-215-60r18

https://www.cx3forum.com/forum/mazda-cx3-owners-check-area/10585-greetings-nyc.html
 

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I hate to dissappoint you but posting on every tire thread around the forum asking if different sizes fit probably isnt going to get you any answers considering very few people have gone with larger tires and have experience to give feedback if they even run the sizes you are asking for. The model is still relatively new (just hit its 4th year)with a growing userbase on the forums but nowhere near as massive as like a mazda3 forum which has over 15 years of production including a performance segment. I try to help as much as I can based on my experience with tinkering but we cant cover all bases.

All I can suggest is use a tire calculator site and do some comparisons and measurements of the car and available room with stock tires and see what the calc gives you in numbers for the new tire based on stock/current. I use this for my cars since I had an old tacoma back in the day yet still applies to most cars based on its algorithm but you can find others too. I cant stress the point to do measurements yourself and to not believe people in the internet that give you a "probably" answer without seeing proof of their words.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc

That being said I think youll have more trouble with rubbing with that 215/60/18. I ran the number in comparison and while we cant use the sidewall height numbers since its different naturally for 16 vs 18 size wheel, the overlay says its slight larger than this guy's 215/70/60 who said hes already hitting the fenders and has the black plastic trim popping out. If you are really hurting for front clearance the lift kit thread from earlier will guide you to front spacers but only the front will work. Rear spacers will not work. Its not the best option but probably a more reasonable route if front clearance is an absolute must.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=215-70r16-215-60r18

https://www.cx3forum.com/forum/mazda-cx3-owners-check-area/10585-greetings-nyc.html
Yeah, you are right. I've had miatas, bmw, datsun Zs, and the forums community is in the tens of thousands. But I understand, only one or two thousand cx-3 where sold, so a smaller community is expected, I slowly starting to learn that.

Anyways, back on topic. I had not seen the 215-70-16 thread about his fender popping off on every bump. I think I going simply order a set of 225/55/R18 Yokohama G015. They are slightly larger than yours, but I don't think I get anything larger than that, and I can't even find a A/T tires for 18 in rims. I'll be ordering by the end of the month. There is $60 mail in rebate right now that might take advantage of it.

Thanks again for your help and for your detailed answer. I'll post pics as soon as can.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Reasons why stock tires are not alright off of the road haha. Fun part starts at 3:15 and then around 4:05 hes spinning on all wheels even through its such a limited mud spot.

https://youtu.be/tuycvmzu6_8?t=197
 

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I wanted to get some opinions.

I'm getting ready to get a new set of tires because OEM tires are starting to go to crap (nearly 40k miles at this point, kinda disappointed with them). OEM handles well, but the sidewall is starting to crack and I can really start to feel the difference when it rains in terms of tread life.

I have the 18 inch wheels.

I was going to go with some Falken Wildpeak AT Trail tires 225/55R18 spec.

Or get 16-inch wheels and throw some KO2's on them. Doing the above will save me a lot of money, but if I do get new wheels I'm torn between Focal X's and Enkei M52's.

Focal X's
23356


M52's
23357



What you guys think? I have a 2016 CX-3 in crystal white
 

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Discussion Starter #91
oh man its been a full year on this thread already haha. I would totally vouch for going with 16s + ko2s and even just 16s in general (ironically I ended up giving my ko2s to @richyboycaldo as I have moved on to regular tires which cost a stupidly lower price than getting a new set of oem 18 sized wheels. That was primarily the main reason I went with 16s in the first place (aside from my 18s cracking as well after only 12k miles and 2 yrs). There are also more options in tires since 18 a/t tires are usually awkwardly sized and very limited in options. With 16s you have much more play and sidewall cushion. The only factor is going to be noise. Ko2s are really loud to the point I retired them from daily driving because I wanted the cx-3 to be a regular 'quiet' daily city driver. Even if you reach this same point as me, with the 16" wheels you would be able to not spend as much on tires as needed on the 18. I picked up a set of cooper evolution touring allseason tires for $60 a piece on a random amazon prime priced listing. I doubt Im ever going to find a deal like that ever again considering how its gone up in price but they are much more comfortable than the 18s because of the added sidewall cushion.

Now that I think about it the main factor you have to keep in mind is driving style. If you are used to what Im going to loosely refer to as 'race car tight corner' driving style, then you should stick to 18s. If you are looking for more cushion against bumps, possible offroading, and maybe even lifting etc then go with the 16s. Keep in mind that it will not feel the same doing tight fast cornering as the 18s because of the the larger sidewall of the 16s. Its not as drastic as a difference but you will feel it not being as responsive as the smaller sidewall tires. However the ko2s have such a thick sidewall in the first place that you might not even notice it but you will notice the extra weight for sure. Then again the cx-3 isnt a drift car in the first place to begin with haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Pros and cons of the ko2s though

pros:
-thicc boi sidewall
-aggressive tread
-rated for severe snow/ice
-does amazing in winter conditions
-amazing offroad traction
-very aesthetic look in general
-can take a nail and not care, as I have experienced

cons:
-added weight from tire material
-added weight from more volume of air to fill
-loud at higher speeds noticable from 30+
-not really the cheapest tire
-most likely will not come with tire hazard package because its meant to be abused
-less mpg.. probably. Letting off the gas on the hw will be like gentle braking without braking because of the weight.
-70+ on highway has considerable drone sound

And dont forget the dreaded all wheel drive rule, when replacing one tire you have to replace all.
 

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Yeah.

I was looking at the tire prices for 16 inches and huge difference. You can get a nice all-season tire for like 70-100 per tire.
 

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-added weight from more volume of air to fill
...
-less mpg.. probably. Letting off the gas on the hw will be like gentle braking without braking because of the weight.
The weight of the air will be negligible next to the weight of... everything else.

The added weight of a wheel/tire package will actually cause the car to coast longer (all else being equal) due to momentum. Rotational inertia is a powerful force. If there is added "engine braking" feel, its probably due to the added rolling resistance inherent in the tire design (rubber compound, internal design, tread pattern, etc).
 
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