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What are some safe jack points for the CX3?

I know the manual recommends the four spots close to the wheels along the outside of the frame, but are there spots better suited for a floor jack? Is the rear diff (doesn't look safe) or front wishbone safe?

Diagrams would be great if anyone has them.
 

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In pdf format in case anybody wants to print a copy........
 

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For the 2wd models, rear jacking position shows that a rear under cover can be removed.

Is this cover there as well with the 4WD models?
 

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In pdf format in case anybody wants to print a copy........
First, thank you for welcoming me!
Have question about US model 2016-17 CX-3, 2L GAS. AWD jacking up at the rear differential. I like to know did you or, know someone who actually jack it up at the rear differential? Assuming the European model (or all continent models in that matter) has the same differential and mounted the same way. My concern is not where to position the jack, but the way the differential is mounted to the body... See member Soraia picture #5 . Thank you in advance. Steven.
 

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I don’t know where to look for that picture but I’ve found some from my CX-3. Firstly, let me say I wouldn’t normally lift both sides of a car at one go unless I just wanted to change the wheels maybe - I think it is too unstable to work on. Looking at this photo you will see that the diff is mounted on three large metaplastic mountings. I don’t think there would be any problems with the diff case or those mountings and we can only presume that Mazda are happy with the forces imposed by lifting it there are OK on the floorpan. I’m not exactly thrilled with lifting the FWD on that point provided behind the bumper. However, these modern cars have a very stiff floorpan and I’m sure they know what they are doing! I certainly would use these centre points while there was any weight in the car.



 

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I haven't lifted my CX-3 by the center points yet but my RX-8 (RWD) lift points are identical and they're roughly the same weight.

Another possibility is to take advantage of the structural rigidity of the car. You can lift one side of the car simply by jacking at the front pinch-weld jacking point. Do it under the end with the most weight (front in a FE/FWD car) I have found this easier and faster when I'm only working on one side of the car at a time. I've done it this way any times on every car I've owned for the last 15 years ('92 Saturn SL2, '99 VW Passat, 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, '05 RX-8, '09 Infiniti G37x and '16 CX-3).

I do NOT recommend this if you're trying to get all four wheels off the ground because you can pull the car off the jack stands unless you have the jack sitting on a frictionless surface. Don't ask me how I know.
 

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"Don't ask me how I know” ;-)
 

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I don’t know where to look for that picture but I’ve found some from my CX-3. Firstly, let me say I wouldn’t normally lift both sides of a car at one go unless I just wanted to change the wheels maybe - I think it is too unstable to work on. Looking at this photo you will see that the diff is mounted on three large metaplastic mountings. I don’t think there would be any problems with the diff case or those mountings and we can only presume that Mazda are happy with the forces imposed by lifting it there are OK on the floorpan. I’m not exactly thrilled with lifting the FWD on that point provided behind the bumper. However, these modern cars have a very stiff floorpan and I’m sure they know what they are doing! I certainly would use these centre points while there was any weight in the car.


The picture I'm referring is in "Tires, Wheels, and Suspension" >3rd page > CX-3 suspension and AWD pictures. Sorry, I'm still "Gibbs" with computers...
Fifth picture showing the plate of the differential mount is bolted to, that plate is my only concern.
Only doing the center lifting at home on concrete floor, twice per year for oil changes, tire rotation and repairs if necessary, on both of our vehicles. Currently the 2017 CX-3 AWD and 2008 TUNDRA SR5 DC 2WD. Before the CX-3, 2007 SUZUKI SX4 AWD SPORT. Center or side lift, both is dangerous! Yes, got to be very cautious! Yes, got to have proper tools! Yes, got to learn as we go!.. I will made or buy four pinch-weld adapters for my jack-stands. Car is very stable and safe on four stands! Yes, I also see and feel the CX-3 floorpan is strong, just want to be safe and learn as much is possible before the first lifting. Scheduled for last weekend of next month or first weekend of December. Still hoping someone already done it...
Yes! Thank you!
 

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I haven't lifted my CX-3 by the center points yet but my RX-8 (RWD) lift points are identical and they're roughly the same weight.

Another possibility is to take advantage of the structural rigidity of the car. You can lift one side of the car simply by jacking at the front pinch-weld jacking point. Do it under the end with the most weight (front in a FE/FWD car) I have found this easier and faster when I'm only working on one side of the car at a time. I've done it this way any times on every car I've owned for the last 15 years ('92 Saturn SL2, '99 VW Passat, 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, '05 RX-8, '09 Infiniti G37x and '16 CX-3).

I do NOT recommend this if you're trying to get all four wheels off the ground because you can pull the car off the jack stands unless you have the jack sitting on a frictionless surface. Don't ask me how I know.
When I was young I did the same way, one side at a time. Then I learn the center lift give you both sides at the same time... http://www.cx3forum.com/forum/images/CX3Forum_2014/smilies/tango_face_devil.png

Thank you for the respond!
Try to learn about the CX-3 as much as possible. Please see my response to anchorman...wish I know how to show it here.
 

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The picture I'm referring is in "Tires, Wheels, and Suspension" >3rd page > CX-3 suspension and AWD pictures. Sorry, I'm still "Gibbs" with computers...
Fifth picture showing the plate of the differential mount is bolted to, that plate is my only concern.
Only doing the center lifting at home on concrete floor, twice per year for oil changes, tire rotation and repairs if necessary, on both of our vehicles. Currently the 2017 CX-3 AWD and 2008 TUNDRA SR5 DC 2WD. Before the CX-3, 2007 SUZUKI SX4 AWD SPORT. Center or side lift, both is dangerous! Yes, got to be very cautious! Yes, got to have proper tools! Yes, got to learn as we go!.. I will made or buy four pinch-weld adapters for my jack-stands. Car is very stable and safe on four stands! Yes, I also see and feel the CX-3 floorpan is strong, just want to be safe and learn as much is possible before the first lifting. Scheduled for last weekend of next month or first weekend of December. Still hoping someone already done it...
Yes! Thank you!
Gibbs always gets his point across and that's good enough for me. I can't really answer your question but if you consider that the jacking points all consist of folded metal, I guess we have to trust Mazda have tested them and it is safe to jack on them. There may be more folded metal inside that plate that we can't see.
 

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It's quite difficult with a floor jack to try to lift up the front of the car. The place where you would need to place the jack is not easily seen just by looking under the front of the car when sitting on the ground.

I just did this today to do my first oil change. I decided to use a set of my homemade wood ramps that I use on my Z06 and Shelby to make it easier to get the floor jack under the front lift point on those cars.

Once I drove up on the ramps with the CX-3 I was able to see the lift point under the car, placed the floor jack under there and lifted up the front of the car.

Of note, with the floor jack under the front lift point it is hard to catch your draining oil with a regular round drain pan. I lifted up the car once on the wood ramps to add an extra piece of wood to raise the front of the car even higher after pulling the floor jack out. This made it easier to do the oil change.

After the change was done I was able to raise the car again with the floor jack so I could turn the steering wheel full lock on either side for the installation of my front mud guards. After that was done I dropped the car down on the wood ramps and drove the car off them.

Quite the production to do an oil change on this car or any other job you need to do that would require raising the front.

Tony
 

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Yes, Tony is right. It is quite difficult to place a jack under the front cross-member. Based on my ex 2007 SX4 AWD I thought the CX-3 is similar enough to do center jack up. It is not. It is unpractical, inconvenient. To do the oil change I just jack'd up at the front side jack points, blocking the rear wheels. To do the tire rotation I jack'd up at the rear jack points also, using two more jacks-this is why: my jack stands just to high to use them on the CX-3, see picture # 3. I made four jack adapter out of 2x8 lumber I had laying in the garage. Worked perfectly for me. Trimmed it wide enough to fit on the jaw of the jack but can be wider as you prefer. The deepness is important, so it will hold the weight at the edge of the pinch weld. The CX-3 under body felt strong, Anchorman was right.
As much as I like the center jack up it is not worth on the CX-3.
Steven.
 

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