[Marcin Glowacki]

My A/C stopped working and the dealer found the issue is caused by leaking compressor. I am a second owner and the leak is likely due to an accident the previous owner had. I do not have a warranty anymore, and I was quoted $1,100+tax for the parts and work.
I am thinking to buy a used or new part online and change it myself. Then I will just go to the local auto shop to fill in the A/C system.

Is this a crazy plan? If not, would you buy a new compressor assembly new for $510 or opt out to reconditioned part for $275?
NEW: https://www.wesell.parts/oem-parts/...69JH-5JSX2cT2mroEWcSG5oH-TsWUoAsaAgGwEALw_wcB
ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-2018-...h=item3b24783a41:g:HPsAAOSwsRVcCW8y:rk:2:pf:1

Last, do you or any of your Mazda friends have a diagram with step by step instructions on how to replace the compressor?


Best,
Marcin

 

[TiGrayMSM]

I would first make sure exactly where the leak is coming from. You can use a fluorescent dye that will help you diagnose this. These cars have faulty condensers (there is a TSB if you search this forum) so many 2016 CX-3s have A/C issues.

 

[Marcin Glowacki]

Yes, I am pretty sure it is the leak on the compressor. I think it is related to the fact that I know the car was in front collision in the past and the condenser was replaced after. The dealer showed me the leak on the compressor. There was a lot of greenish fluid all over the compressor and under it. When I filled the system past summer the shop added dye and there are no other visible spots with the leaks.
However, I am not sure how the mechanic at the dealership would be sure the leak is not limited to connections on O rings to the compressor. How would he know that the compressor itself is leaking... Maybe that is something I should investigate more.

 

[CraigZ]

I recently added a whole can of Freon to my car. Seems to be a problem with the a/c system in these cars. Should last a lot longer than that.

 

[anchorman]

I wouldn’t be so sure about the compressor. There has been a whole raft of issues with air conditioning on these cars and none have been compressor related from memory. They were all condenser or evaporator related. Secondly, there are strict procedures for re gassing which requires the system to be fully evacuated first then the correct weight of refrigerant to be added. It’s up to you but you might be wasting a lot of time and expense doing it. I’d follow the testing route suggested above.

 

[CraigZ]

I went with the less expensive alternative. The clutch was still spinning which means compressor was still working so added refrigerate until it was in the green on gauge. So far so good. If it holds for another 3 years I’ll be fine with that. Refrigerate with gauge was $35.00.