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I am interested in getting a pair of these. Let me know how you like them once installed
 

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Hi, Gian Luca Muccini

I bought the same DRL and I just installed it, so to work as “normal” DRL you must connect black wire to Battery - (negative) and Red wire to battery ACC +, and White wire to Dimming(Headlight or other Lights +) in my case white wire I did not connect it and works perfectly. I'll show photo soon.
 

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Hi, Gian Luca Muccini

I bought the same DRL and I just installed it, so to work as “normal” DRL you must connect black wire to Battery - (negative) and Red wire to battery ACC +, and White wire to Dimming(Headlight or other Lights +) in my case white wire I did not connect it and works perfectly. I'll show photo soon.
Great ... photos are welcome ... especially those showing us exactly where each wire goes :)
 

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Great ... photos are welcome ... especially those showing us exactly where each wire goes :)
here are the photos. Red wire is connected to the fuse Nº 9 7.5 Amp ( METER2), but the correct thing would be to connect it to fuse Nº 19 or 28 (H/L RH or H/L LH, Headlight)...in any way and it is working well.
 

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here are the photos. Red wire is connected to the fuse Nº 9 7.5 Amp ( METER2), but the correct thing would be to connect it to fuse Nº 19 or 28 (H/L RH or H/L LH, Headlight)...in any way and it is working well.
Cool, thanks. I'll try to do the same thing using Fuse Taps but to the turn signals since the DRLs I ordered flash amber.
I hope the non dimming DRLs aren't too bright at night.
 

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here are the photos. Red wire is connected to the fuse Nº 9 7.5 Amp ( METER2), but the correct thing would be to connect it to fuse Nº 19 or 28 (H/L RH or H/L LH, Headlight)...in any way and it is working well.
¡OK! ¡Gracias!
 

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here are the photos. Red wire is connected to the fuse Nº 9 7.5 Amp ( METER2), but the correct thing would be to connect it to fuse Nº 19 or 28 (H/L RH or H/L LH, Headlight)...in any way and it is working well.
I tried last weekend but all the smaller fuses were live or dead. None changed when I turned on the ignition (two presses of the start switch with foot off the brake). Thanks for the pics. I'll take pics next weekend when I have another go.
 

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I tried last weekend but all the smaller fuses were live or dead. None changed when I turned on the ignition (two presses of the start switch with foot off the brake). Thanks for the pics. I'll take pics next weekend when I have another go.
Do you want them on with the engine not running?
 

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Surprised that noone has mentioned it yet but wouldnt a relay be the safest and probably least intrusive manner of wiring these? The only decision that would be left is what the trigger would be to turn them on which could easily be t-ed into existing headlight, foglight, or drl line while not putting a strain on the current being drawn. You could even tie in a switch for manual on/off. Was just thinking about this seeing as any sort of offroad/aftermarket/additional lighting has a significant power draw that would not be good to pull directly from a pre-existing line (although the draw from these leds(?) would probably not be significant in general).
 

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If you're adding powerful driving lights, yes. but Daytime Range Lights don't pull much power. The wires are tiny. I want to power my DRLs with a fuse tap that comes on with ACC or any other power source that comes on/off with the ignition that won't cause a error code.
 

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Well, I install DRLs on my wife's 2016 CX3 today. These are the DRLs that go amber with the turn signals. The white light go out while the amber turn signals flash on and off. Then after a couple of seconds the white DRL comes back on as normal. They're pretty cool. Wire Taps made tapping into the turn signal wires a snap, literally.

My continuing problem is finding 12V + that goes off with the ignition or ACC. I tried Meter 2 and headlights but they're always on. Would me using a Fuse Tap make any difference?
 

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These are pretty sharp. I have Daytime Running Lights already, I assume because they're mandatory in Canada, but the added lights wouldn't hurt especially the signal. Since I've been driving this car I've noticed people don't seem to see the signal light or don't react to it. Maybe they're just super cautious around here, but I'm not sure I've ever had someone pull out when I've been signalling right until I actually started my turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thank for photos

thanks for the photos. But it would not be more correct to install the lights on 21 TAIL (front, license plate lights, front position lights) from 20 Amper?
 

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Requires removal of alignment tabs that are part of the vehicle's front bumper.
Their ad says no modification which to me is a blatant lie.
Let's see if they continue to dispute my refund request.
 
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