Mazda CX-3 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just did an engine oil change on the CX-3 AWD after 1,300 miles.
The Wrench icon turned up for oil change for some reason, even though we just bought the car. It was saying like 183 miles or so to oil change, pretty much asking to change oil at 1,500 on the ODO. I was already planning to change after a break in anyway. I did that to my other cars bought new as well.

So here's the engine oil filter. Purolator model L14612. Other brands also use L14612. The tool for this filter is 65 mm 14 flutes.





Jack up the front of the car using jacking points. Make sure you use jack stands or your life can end painfully.
The oil drain is at the back of the pan so jacking up the front end only ensures all the dirty oil comes out.
Both oil drain and oil filter are located inside same panel. It has three 8 mm hex head screws and two push-pins.



Use 8 mm hex wrench to undo the drain plug.



You will need 3" extension since the oil filter is too close for a normal size ratchet.



Here's the drain plug with original washer on it. The new washer was for MZR engine in 2006-15 Mazda Miata MX-5 but it is same size. It is sitting on a quarter for reference in case you don't want to show up at Mazda dealer for the $0.70 washer.



Mazda oil filter is 67 mm with 14 flutes. So using 65/67 dual size can save some money for you. I just happen to get both.



Don't tighten the oil filter or drain plug too much. There are torque ratings but since both have washers, all you need is enough to put pressure on the washers. Oil filter can be tightened with hand since it uses rubber washer.

Always try to use 0w-20 oil since US market cars are made for it. Saves gas and flows better inside the engine. For other market cars, read the manual.

Once oil change is done, go to Mazda Connect system menu Home>Apps>Maintenance>Oil Change>Reset to reset the interval once more. I set mine to smart oil change with considers environmental conditions , trip lengths, time, driving distance, engine load to recommend oil change sooner (max 10,000 miles)
Good luck.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
547 Posts
Bumping this old thread.

Has anyone used an oil extractor with their CX-3 yet?

It's basically a hand pump with attached to a reservoir with a siphon that goes down the oil dipstick tube. Warm up the engine and turn it off, insert tube, pump vacuum in reservoir, watch oil get sucked out.

I use one on my RX-8 and get the same amount of oil out as using the drain hole. Obviously, oil pan topographies may be different which is why I ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
When it's time to do my first oil change on my CX-3 that I just picked up yesterday, I will be looking for a drain plug that will use a regular box end wrench or socket to remove and install.

I am not a big fan of fasteners that require an allen key or hex socket. Depending on the make and metal type of the key or hex socket you can easily screw up the factory drain plug and you would be **** out of luck trying to remove it afterwards.

Yes a regular drain plug can get screwed up too but the chances of that happening is less likely vs. an allen key bolt.

Anybody know the size and thread pitch of the oil drain plug bolt? If no one knows I'll find out and when I get the proper plug I'll post up here what I use.

Tony
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,078 Posts
No but this TSB gives you some part numbers. I think it is the standard Toyota plug.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Thanks anchorman for that pdf. I will check that other part # at my Mazda dealer but I will also try to find a magnetic plug that will work in the oil pan.

I use magnetic plugs in my Z06 and Shelby and there are always tiny minute particles stuck to the drain plug when doing an oil change I think doing something like that for the CX-3 would be a good idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Years ago cars used to require a quick oil change but they don't now. Do They?

Why would you change your oil after 1,500 miles? Am I missing something?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
547 Posts
Depends on the market. In the US, Mazda set the OCI at around 1/2 or 1/3 the length as other parts of the world. No idea why.

Some car nerds (such as myself) like to do a very short initial oil change to remove all of the particles generated during break-in. I doubt it's necessary but it makes us feel better.

An update on my oil extractor question:
I tried and failed. I had a bodged repair on the extractor tube for my PELA 6000 (heat shrink tubing to fix damage done by a Hyundai 2.7L engine). The extra thickness of the heat shrink is just a bit too much for the narrow dipstick tube. I need to contact PELA about a replacement tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Might as well just drain it the conventional way instead of making more work getting a tube down there to suck out the old oil. I'm already slightly annoyed that there's a cover I gotta pull off everytime an oil change is performed don't need extra work to do for a simple job.

Get the car nice and hot and pull the plug and just let it drain. Shops want to get your car in and out so usually they don't get all the oil out but doing it yourself this way you can let it drain while checking the other systems on your car.

I hear that the cx-3 plug is facing the back of the vehicle, my driveway has a slope down so that's perfect for me to yank the plug and let it drain. I even let it drip for quite a while before putting the plug back. Remember there will always be some old oil in your engine no amount of draining will get it all out.

It also looks like the mazda filter screws in vertically so that's perfect to be able to prefill the new filter before installing it. I do that with the vette and shelby but can't do that with the suzuki or nissan since the filters on those two cars mount horizontally.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
547 Posts
In hindsight, a lot of the benefits from an oil extractor are blunted somewhat by the location of the oil filter. In my '8 (with the filter on top), the oil extractor gets as much oil as pulling the drain plug and I never have to get down on the ground.

I may just invest in a Fumoto drain valve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Went to my dealer today and picked up two filters, washers and gave the guy the part # for the regular hex head drain plug from anchorman's pdf.

The parts guy crossed that # to another # part that they use now. He brought out the OE allen hex head bolt and the replacement hex socket plug he says that at the service level they use for cars in for an oil change.

I bought that plug and took it to a jobber to try to find the same drain plug with a magnet on it..................that wasn't happening since they didn't have one they just sell a regular replacement plug. The good thing is that I saw the screen he was punching #'s in and that drain plug shows up as being a M14x1.5mm size.

I'll check my other connections and now knowing the size of the plug finding one with a magnet on it will be easier.

Tony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Found it!!!!!!

Dorman makes a M14x1.5mm mag drain plug part #65216 or 090-036.1

Dorman Products - 090-036.1

The threaded area is a tad longer than the OE plug but that shouldn't be an issue with it contacting anything other than oil in the oil pan.

I'll get one on the way and when I do the first oil change on the car later this week I'll report on how it went using it.

edit: disregard the stupid plastic washer they show I will use the OE mazda crush washer with this plug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
I'm on the same wave length as NotAPreppie so I'll repeat what he said "Some car nerds (such as myself) like to do a very short initial oil change to remove all of the particles generated during break-in. I doubt it's necessary but it makes us feel better". If to some that doesn't make sense well, what can I say....to each his own.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
547 Posts
We just got the keys to our new apartment, guess what the first thing I did in my new garage was?

Yup, oil change in the included private 2-car garage. We don't even move in for another 5 days but, damnit, I wanted to play!

I got a replacement tube for my PELA 6000 extractor and used it to extract about 4.5-4.75 qts through the dipstick hole. A bit more came out with the filter. I may never have to buy a crush washer again!

I'm thinking of adding one of these to my toolbox as our filters are perfectly oriented to for it:
http://a.co/03MvyD0

I used a Mobil 1 M1-108 filter and refilled with 5 qts of Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w-20 oil (because they were on sale as a package at my local autoparts store).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
We just got the keys to our new apartment, guess what the first thing I did in my new garage was?

Yup, oil change in the included private 2-car garage. We don't even move in for another 5 days but, damnit, I wanted to play!

I got a replacement tube for my PELA 6000 extractor and used it to extract about 4.5-4.75 qts through the dipstick hole. A bit more came out with the filter. I may never have to buy a crush washer again!

I'm thinking of adding one of these to my toolbox as our filters are perfectly oriented to for it:
http://a.co/03MvyD0

I used a Mobil 1 M1-108 filter and refilled with 5 qts of Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w-20 oil (because they were on sale as a package at my local autoparts store).
"No Mess Oil Filter Drain" ... did you get it, does it work?

:nerd:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
547 Posts
"No Mess Oil Filter Drain" ... did you get it, does it work?

:nerd:
No, not yet. I've got a few thousand more miles before my next oil change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
OK, I have a pair of M1-108 filters and 5 quarts of Mobil 1 Extended ...

But with ice on the ground, I think Ill take the dealer's offer to charge $20 to change it using my oil and filter.

P.S. The PELA 6000 looks impressive!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
547 Posts
I like it. I just used it again to suck all the 40w oil out of the air compressor I just got. It took about 30 minutes (with a heat gun!) to remove 1qt because 40w oil in 30F weather is thicker than honey.

If you really want to go crazy, get the Big PELA 650 or PELA Pro 14. Mityvac also makes similar products.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
2,000 miles decided to replace the "break-in" oil.

$28 Walmart for 5 qts 0W-20 Mobil 1 Extended, plus $11 from Amazon for Mobil 1 filter.

$25 to the dealer for labor (Walmart said $10 labor).

200 mile round trip Portland / Boston today. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
I like it. I just used it again to suck all the 40w oil out of the air compressor I just got. It took about 30 minutes (with a heat gun!) to remove 1qt because 40w oil in 30F weather is thicker than honey.

If you really want to go crazy, get the Big PELA 650 or PELA Pro 14. Mityvac also makes similar products.
I remember back about 60 years ago I worked at a marina at Honey Harbour north of Toronto. Those power oil extractors were used to suck the dirty oil from marine engines. In those days they were big clunky industrial machines and they did the job. This is the first that I have heard of using one of them on an automobile. At first it appears to be a "Rube Goldberg" device (look up this long forgotten cartoonist if you don't know what I am talking about). And now I am thinking: Why not? Fast, less mess and it always did a complete cleanout.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top