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The maintenance wrench comes on if you have chosen the flexible oil change plan correct? If that is the case I believe I read that you must manually reset it after every oil change (from settings > maintenance).
 

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I like to perform my own oil changes but have never owned a new car under warranty.

How difficult is it to access the drain plug and filter?
How did you know what filter to use? Auto part places don't have the CX-3 in their book. Is there another Mazda using the same filter?
If i'm using full synthetic do i really need to change oil every 5K miles? Seems extreme.

Thanks.
 

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I like to perform my own oil changes but have never owned a new car under warranty.

How difficult is it to access the drain plug and filter?
How did you know what filter to use? Auto part places don't have the CX-3 in their book. Is there another Mazda using the same filter?
If i'm using full synthetic do i really need to change oil every 5K miles? Seems extreme.

Thanks.
I plan to do oil changes myself as well. Since it would be under warranty, I would stick with Mazda OEM oil filters. From what I have read on the Mazda 3 forum, the filter is pretty good. Buy a half dozen from your local dealer. Don't go to Walmart and get cheap Fram or Quaker State filters(not knocking Fram, just cheap filters) As for oil, 0W20 GF-5 certified. Castrol and Mobil 1 0W20 oils are certified GF-5. I prefer synthetic, especially in winter. As for drain plug, most require a new washer after every drain. Invest in a torque wrench set to not damage the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The maintenance wrench comes on if you have chosen the flexible oil change plan correct? If that is the case I believe I read that you must manually reset it after every oil change (from settings > maintenance).
With the car on in park i was able to access it.

I plan to do oil changes myself as well. Since it would be under warranty, I would stick with Mazda OEM oil filters. From what I have read on the Mazda 3 forum, the filter is pretty good. Buy a half dozen from your local dealer. Don't go to Walmart and get cheap Fram or Quaker State filters(not knocking Fram, just cheap filters) As for oil, 0W20 GF-5 certified. Castrol and Mobil 1 0W20 oils are certified GF-5. I prefer synthetic, especially in winter. As for drain plug, most require a new washer after every drain. Invest in a torque wrench set to not damage the threads.
OEM filter and Mobil1 for this guy. I drive a lot for work so I change synthetic every 5k miles.
 

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Since we're on the topic of DIY, has anyone managed to come across a service manual for the CX-3?

Or at least anything close to that?
 

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There is a very comprehensive online manual that covers the technical explanations, the repair, wiring and bodywork but you have to be registered as a motor trader to access it.
 

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I changed the oil on my car with 500 miles on it this last weekend.

4.4 quarts w/ new filter
I used Amsoil 5w-20 oil (negligible difference btwn 0w)
I used a Royal Purple 10-2876 Extended Life Oil Filter

With amsoil and royal purple filter, i can likely get 10k mile life. That said, I don't believe in oil changes every 10k and will pursue a 5k interval.

Took me 30 mins start to finish.

Surprised they went w/ a hex head drain pan bolt vs a standard 17mm drain pan bolt - kind of annoying but not a big deal.
 

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Good for you. I will do all of the maintenance on mine.

The sump plug on the diesel is a hex too

 

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Someone made an access port to eliminate the cover requiring removal. Nice.
 

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Someone made an access port to eliminate the cover requiring removal. Nice.
It is nice. There is still the big weather and wind shield underneath but the fibre shield round the sump reduces noise and condensation getting in the oil.

 

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I changed the oil on my car with 500 miles on it this last weekend.

4.4 quarts w/ new filter
I used Amsoil 5w-20 oil (negligible difference btwn 0w)
I used a Royal Purple 10-2876 Extended Life Oil Filter

With amsoil and royal purple filter, i can likely get 10k mile life. That said, I don't believe in oil changes every 10k and will pursue a 5k interval.

Took me 30 mins start to finish.

Surprised they went w/ a hex head drain pan bolt vs a standard 17mm drain pan bolt - kind of annoying but not a big deal.
That's an Allen drive?
What size was that?
Thanks
 

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My GF owns a CX3 and since I'm more incline to car stuffs, thought I'd post for her benefits. She just had her 1st service in the Mazda dealership yesterday after about 5,000kms. According to them, they use Petro-Canada 0W 20 oil which is $29. Just wondering if there's a better oil that can be bought for about the same price or cheaper cause I'm new to Petro-Canada made oil. TIA
 

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Any good oil that meets the specs will work in your car. Being in Canada you probably want to keep in the 0W 20 weight oil and no higher than the 5W. Anyone that has changed their own oil, will a Fumoto valve work? Don't see one advertised for our cars yet, but they do list one for the engine we have. Makes the oil changes a lot easier, have one on all of my vehicles. Thanks.
 

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I changed the oil on my car with 500 miles on it this last weekend.

4.4 quarts w/ new filter
I used Amsoil 5w-20 oil (negligible difference btwn 0w)
I used a Royal Purple 10-2876 Extended Life Oil Filter

With amsoil and royal purple filter, i can likely get 10k mile life. That said, I don't believe in oil changes every 10k and will pursue a 5k interval.

Took me 30 mins start to finish.

Surprised they went w/ a hex head drain pan bolt vs a standard 17mm drain pan bolt - kind of annoying but not a big deal.
I would not deviate from the manufacture's recommended oil viscosity. Mazda states to use 0W20 synthetic oil. The direct injection engine have extremely tight tolerances and the oil has to reach some very tight places. If 0W20 or 5W20 oil was acceptable, then I believe Mazda would have provided the option. Snoogie... What say you?
 

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Actually I had a recent "conversation" with a customer for 45 mins on why her engine requires 0w20 and that going any different would cause possible harm. I was "conversing" with her that with these engines being so tight in tolerances and with oil pressure being extremely important for these engines, using even one weight about (5w20) with either classic dino oil or full synthetic could damage the engine to the point of catastrophic failure. The reason I mention the dino oil is that this customer really wanted to use conventional 5w20 because it was cheaper, you spend $25k on a car and you want to save $8. A torn apart skyactiv engine used in my training class has many oil paths the size of veins where using thicker oil will reduce the flow rate or clogging the paths out right again lowering the ever so important oil pressure needed for our engines to run effectively. Also the seals and o-rings used are very sensitive to the oil used especially when mixed with dino oil. Leaks will the least of your concern using classic dino oil instead of full synthetic. We already had 2 skyactiv engines completely ruined/seized/burst because they used conventional 5w20 to save $10.

Now long story short I put dino oil in her engine and she agreed its going against what Mazda recommends. Also this car had its last oil change 2 years ago which i suspect it was sitting for a long time instead of just running for 2 years on junk oil.

Now with that out of the way yes please for the sake of saving $1000+ in a new engine and the look the techs will give you as you enter the service drive and just use 0w20 full synthetic oil. As mentioned in other threads oil is not something to cheapen out of just to save a few bucks since you will spend those savings on a new engine. I mean its roughly $60-$70 if someone does it for you ever 4 months. If you cannot afford that then you might want to reconsider owning a car.

Now this is just what I recommend not as a sales rep for synthetic oil or someone who wants to push you to have to spend more money as I've been accused of that many times until they come back to apologize with a seized engine, but as a human being who wants to help others out by not ruining their cars and spending unnecessary money on repairs that could of been prevented.

Also a side note on those hex drain bolts, yea all the senior techs at my shop all agree "wtf is this" so at lease on our personal vehicles we change it to a normal bolt that we have replacements of at our parts store. I really really hate those hex drain bolts as ever since the first skyactiv engines had used it every quick lube place has stripped the nuts out of it then RTV it back in.
 
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