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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody!

Yesterday afternoon I changed the bleeder valve (driver side) on my CX3 (2019), because the old one was a bit corroded. I torqued the new one at 10nm-11nm and directly flushed the brake fluid on this side as well. I tried braking right after and checked for leaks and nothing was coming out.

Strange enough it's losing a tiny bit of brake fluid through the thread if I wait several hours, but nothing though the hole on the valve. This evening I tried braking hard and kept the brake pressed for 2 minutes and tried braking multiple times but it was not leaking at all.

I thought maybe the fluid between the threads didn't came out yet as the threads don't seal. So I tried pulling off the rubber cap and putting it back on for several times (pumping out the fluid) so I could see if anything was left between the threads, and you could see a tiny bit of fluid but far less than a drop was gathering in the thread.

I'm keen to hear what you guys think and if I should change the bleeder valve again, or do you think this will stop after several days?
 

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The only thing that reminds me of is an old saturn a family member had where they took damage to the wheel and in the process knocked the bleeder valve on the caliper hard and it slightly damaged the threading. It would work but have a slight leak afterwards. Replaced caliper and it was done with. Feels like an extreme case but also had another instance where a coworker once had to use a larger than recommended valve for it to seal correctly.

Id suggest trying one more time with a new valve and deep cleaning the port as much as possible before putting the new on one. See if the threading is as it should be. If it leaks again it might need a new caliper but i mean at that point if its gonna be replaced anyway, wouldnt hurt to try a little more torque? If you are not the original owner I wouldnt be surprised if someone over torqued something or applied too much pressure if the brake system was ever bled.

Good luck and keep us posted.


Note: double check the torque specs, I dont know for sure what it is from mazda but try their official spec if you got that current number from past experience or another source, just in case
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks so much for your reply!!

Actually it came with this stuck bleeder from the shop, we bought it new about 2 years ago.

I monitored the valve several days because I didn't want to take it out too quickly as fluid might just be stuck between the threads and I think it is.

Day 2: So after the day I changed it (the day I started this conversation) it leaked the most, because during the night a drop came out and created a tear on the caliper.
Day 3: was significantly less, no tear and only a bit sweaty around the valve itself on the top part of the caliper.

Since that day I didn't really cleaned it or checked it because the brake felt firm and the master cylinder didn't lowered.

I just checked it after your reply and saw that it became a bit dirty around the valve as it was sweaty from before and collected some dust. I also think this means it didn't created a drop during the whole week as the caliper is dry everywhere. I just cleaned it again so let's see if it gets sweaty in the upcoming days.

I'm going to go for a big trip this weekend, so let's see if it stops getting sweaty around the bleeder or if it continues. If it doesn't stop I'll probably change the bleeder
 
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