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A. Keep the light in the house in front of a dehumidifier for a week.2. Halogen Bulb Upgrade, DRLs: HID vs LED
B. Disassemble the housing and wiping it dry. Does anyone have pictures or advice? Heat gun and patience?
C. What are my options for replacing the housing sealant to make sure this doesn't happen again?
The halogen headlights consists of the lowbeam projector and the high beam reflector.
If you are installing an hid kit for the lowbeam halogen capsules, it is best to use a HID wiring harness.
The harness will connect to the battery, the frame of the car and also to the lowbeam bulb socket. This will help it to know when to trigger the HID ballasts so that your auto on headlight feature will function normally.
If you install HID ballasts directly to the lowbeam bulb socket, you can will run into electrical issues and potentially cause fire to your headlight wiring. Those wires were not designed to pull in the amount of amperes it takes to start up an hid ballast
The headlights are halogen bulbs in a halogen projector housing. I assume the focal point is different in an HID/Xenon/LED projector. They are not LEDs either. They look like this:
My understanding is the DRL is the low beam, but it is a lower powered version of the low beam which would not be enough to ignite the ballast upon start-up. However, my girlfriend leaves her lights in the ON position as they shut off with the car after 15 seconds or so. The only apparent bonus of the "DRLs" is to have them turn off when not moving -- this isn't important to either of us.
Is the scatter of an LED or HID in a halogen projector that bad on the CX-3? I realize there will be some, which can be less with an LED over an HID. I don't want to blind others, but am not paying $1400 for new LED projector housings.
Based on Trixstar's post, I'll probably be best off running quality LEDs to avoid an HID wiring harness to keep things simple. BUT, I'm worried the throw won't be very far.
Has anyone installed 35watt HIDs with the DRL as the low powered, low beam?
I think someone also said that on the halogen headlights you can adjust the positioning of the beam itself which might be something of interest if you want to go down that route. Unfortunatly I cant comment on the drl shared wiring signal component. I would suggest a test to see if theres a difference at night between drl and lowbeam setting. If it is almost negligible then there shouldnt be much of an issue. I believe it would be relayed anyways since that would be the smarter/safer route for the manufacturer but would need wiring sheets to confirm.
The factory CX-3 halogen bulbs are 55 watt H11 halogen bulbs. I replaced the factory bulbs with a Morimoto HID kit, as the factory light output is horrendous at best. I bought the H11 kit from Morimoto, and these were the components:
H11: Morimoto Elite HS-H11
2 x 50w / AMP: Morimoto XB Ballast $100.00 BL21
Compatible H11 HID Bulbs
2 x H11B/H9/H8: XB 5500K $25.00 B350
Harness (See Compatibility Info Below)
1 x HD Relay: H11/H9/H8/880 $25.00 H40
Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link (optional)
1 x Morimoto Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link $15.00 H300
The light output/cut-off with this kit has worked very well for me. The CX-3 projectors are definitely not the best on the market, but for me this upgrade made the lights very good. For those voicing concern about the light cut-off, it is very clear/crisp and does not appear to be blinding other drivers (no one has flashed their brights at me yet... besides speed trap warnings ). The install is straightforward. The most difficult part was changing the plugs on the ballasts so that they would match the factory plugs/harness. These plugs (male connectors) were included with the kit, so really it was no big deal. I also got the capacitor just in case the DRLS would be left on. If you get this kit and have any install questions just shoot me a PM. Just as an FYI, the 50 watt ballasts with H11B 5500K bulbs have a pure white color with just a bit a blue (excellent lumen output). They look like OEM HIDs.
The model we have is a 2016 Touring. This is the mid-level, below GT, but above the base. However, my girlfriend found a new Touring in Dynamic Blue with extra features including the sun/moonroof and Bose speaker package. It's only missing the LED headlights and GT wheels when compared to a GT model.
I did find this post about aiming the headlights which will happen asap. https://www.cx3forum.com/forum/elect...seriously.html
I checked today and there is a noticeable difference in light output for DRL mode versus headlights on. The light stalk twists from OFF, DRL, ON. When set to off, they are obviously off. In DRL mode, they are only on when not in park -- in park, they are off. When set to ON, the light output is noticeably brighter. All this to say that the DRLs are the lowbeams in a low powered state which could mess with the wiring without running a harness. My girlfriend always leaves her lights on (they turn off within 20 seconds of shutting the car off) so there's no obvious benefit of running DRLs to us.
BUT, we'd rather not risk forgetting about running without a harness and screw something up. I don't want to complicate her car with a harness or get in trouble lol
Great knowledge here, thanks!
So you have a harness on. What is your situation with the low powered lowbeams? I'm guessing the feature of DRLs exists but it's just the high powered HID kit since you have a relay, not a low powered HID output. I would guess the power draw from the low powered DRL won't be enough to fire the ballasts so if I go HID, then I'd need a harness.
Would you have any pictures of how you ran the wires? Can you explain where the capacitor sits? I'll have to check the retrofit/morimoto site to see if they have diagrams.
I'm tempted to run a harness but I've been told to not screw with too much I had a 55w 5000K on my last car and they were amazing. My current Mazda3 s GT has D2S bi-xenons with Adaptive Front-lighting System. With those two experiences, I feel like I'm driving with a handheld flashlight in the CX-3, especially in the rain.